Selvedge denim, worth the hype? Let’s unveil the allure
Selvedge denim is considered one of the highest-quality types of denim. It is woven on traditional shuttle looms, which create a distinctive white edge with colored stitching in the middle. Selvedge jeans are highly sought after at Candiani Custom and are favored by those who appreciate denim heritage and tradition.
What is selvedge denim?
Denim has traditionally been made with shuttle looms, but after World War II, they were extensively replaced by more efficient projectile looms. As a result, shuttle looms have become rare in the industry, but they are responsible for producing one of the most appreciated qualities of denim: selvedge.
Shuttle looms operate at a slower pace, have less precise combs, exhibit more relaxed yarn tension, and create smaller fabrics compared to projectile looms. However, they have the unique capability to allow the weft to weave the characteristic edge that distinguishes selvedge from full-width denim, attracting many denim enthusiasts. This edge prevents the fabric from becoming frayed.
In the US, this distinctive characteristic was originally named self-edge, from which the name selvedge derives. Selvedge denim typically features a white band with colored stitching, often in red, which was the color used by Levi’s® at the beginning of the last century. Nowadays, selvedge denim comes in a wide range of constructions and colors.
Selvedge denim is easily identifiable by its uncut edges, meaning that the fabric edges are not trimmed like regular denim. You can spot the selvedge by turning the jeans inside out.
The history of shuttle looms
The first drawing of a mechanical weaving loom with a shuttle dates back to 1495 and Leonardo da Vinci. This drawing is included in the Codex Atlanticus on page 985. However, the first real shuttle loom was engineered only in 1733, during the Industrial Revolution. Inspired by Leonardo’s intuition, John Kay patented the flying shuttle, which was automatically shot by a paddle. Mechanical shuttle looms redefined the standards of the textile industry as they accelerated the weaving process and allowed for the creation of larger fabrics.
Travel to Italy, the US, and Japan to explore the roots of denim
The history of selvedge denim spans three countries: Italy, the US, and Japan. Denim fabric, as we know it, originated from Genoese fustian, a fabric made with cotton yarns and indigo-dyed warp that emerged in the 16th century. Genoese sailors initially used this fabric to make sails and cover shiploads but eventually started using it to produce durable workwear. The fabric gained popularity in London, where it was called jeans by mangling the name of Genoa.
In 1873, tailor Jacob Davis and entrepreneur Levi Strauss patented the predecessor of our modern 5-pocket jeans. This riveted garment was invented for a logger, who needed comfortable and durable trousers, but soon became a symbol of the Gold Rush in California and the US frontier.
After World War II, a significant shift occurred in the perception of jeans. From being just workwear, they started gaining popularity among various layers of the population, marking the beginning of their journey as a fashion item. In the 1960s, US denim brands, in an attempt to meet the increasing demand, started mass-producing and replacing shuttle with projectile looms, which led to a compromise in quality and attention to detail.
However, in Japan, meticulous artisans, deeply influenced by US culture, were keen on preserving the legacy and heritage of jeans. They learned how to make accurate replicas of traditional 5-pocket jeans, leading to the birth of Japanese selvedge denim, a fabric that is now famous, appreciated, and refined.
Candiani’s best selvedge denim is available for your custom jeans
Enthusiasts and collectors highly covet Japanese selvedge denim jeans, but there is only one mill that still produces selvedge denim fabric in the Italian area where the predecessor of the fabric was born 500 years ago: Candiani Denim. The mill proudly maintains the selvedge denim tradition using vintage shuttle looms and updates it by incorporating the latest sustainable innovations in the industry.
The selvedge fabrics used in the Candiani Custom micro-factory are produced with unique techniques, technologies, and patents that prioritize environmental and community considerations while preserving the authentic aesthetic and distinctive character of traditional selvedge denim. We highly value its heritage and all the values it embodies, which is why our selvedge denim jeans are made exclusively with raw selvedge denim. Men’s and women’s regular-fit jeans, men’s sartorial jeans, and women’s boyfriend jeans are available in selvedge denim.
What is raw denim?
Raw denim is not washed in an industrial laundry, meaning it goes (almost) straight from the loom to your closet. Denim is unique because it becomes more beautiful as it ages, fading according to the wearer’s habits and use. This is especially true for raw denim, as industrial washes remove indigo and create unnatural fading effects.
Domestic washes also accelerate fading and make jeans bleed blue in a more uniform way. To preserve the appearance of our selvedge raw denim, we provide a washing guide so that our selvedge denim fades in a unique and timely manner.
A guide to washing selvedge denim
To keep raw denim in good condition, it’s best to wash it as infrequently as possible and to wait at least six months after purchasing and wearing it before washing. When you can no longer wait, hand wash your jeans inside out using cold or lukewarm water with a small amount of mild detergent. Alternatively, use vinegar and fabric softener.
Let the jeans soak for 45-60 minutes, then brush them to remove any debris. Rinse the jeans two or three times in clean water, roll and press them to remove excess water, and air-dry them away from direct sunlight. While the jeans are still damp, you can wear them to help them regain their original shape. Finally, iron them inside out.